Posts

A Concrete Holiday, part 1

Image
I like airports. It's the sense of their potential, alongside their transitory emptiness that makes a strange poetic harmony. They are waiting to be filled with meaning. Which gives you the sense that anything is possible in an airport, that every choice you make has significant effect on what comes next. It's usually with hindsight that we identify the moments or spaces where our lives change. It's hard to be inspired by these moments because seen in retrospect this is where possibilities die, where futures are locked into place and where unchangeable reality is formed. Everyone has played the 'what if' game at some difficult point in their life, but at some level we all know that it's an unhealthy exercise. The events which have led to a situation can't be changed, although the readings of them can, so generally it's better to accept the present and focus on planning for the future. So what do you make then, of a situation where the present could ...

Waiting room of the soul..

Image
(This is an old post from around the 20th of May. It originally appeared the day after I got refused entry from England. A few days later I ended up in quite a lot of trouble in Turkey, more posts on this to come, and my family had to take it down for fear of it influencing events. In the interests of keeping this blog as a record of my travels this year, I'm reposting it so that the chronology remains true. On another note it now seems desperately ironic that the English wouldn't let me in for fear of me being a trouble-maker, given the horrible eruptions of their fragile society and the pissed off underclass in the last few weeks. Serves em right.)

Shades of Grey

While travelling across India and Iran I have been trying to observe the life, history and politics of both countries from the perspective of locals, partly from a desire to understand their cultures as they relate to long stories of struggle and national identity, and partly to give myself a better perspective on the life experience of being born in Australia – a new nation, yet one with opportunity to develop in many exciting directions. So far while learning, meeting people and asking questions, the dominant theme of my thoughts has been the tension within Iran and India between traditional cultures and the pull of globally accessible information about modernity and consumerism in the West. This is particularly felt by Iranian young people living in cramped, repressive situations, but it also expresses itself in the rise of the ambitious and modern Indian middle class, something which seems incongruous or unfair in a country where traditions and also poverty are so vividly visi...

After the Revolution

There is a cold wind blowing along the long boulevard, as i disembark from the bus which has brought me to the far western suburbs of Mashhad, one of Shia' Islam's holiest cities. The streets are wide, with scattered shops and barred windows. It is a friday, the holy day in Islamic countries, and naturally nost businesses are closed. I stand on the corner and zip my leather jacket closed to the collar, waiting for my friend made from a tenous internet connection to arrive as promised. He soon appears, leading his little brother by the hand. He has invited me for lunch at his parents house, and we make out way through streets populated by undecorated yellow brick buildings, sparse winter trees, and grey skies. I feel that i have somehow entered a different Iran from the bustling city centre of Mashhad, or maybe this is in fact the true face of the city, just as the outer suburbs of Melbourne can give you more perspective on the demographics of a place than it's urban hear...

Getting Risky in Rishikesh

Image
I think one of the best pieces of advice that i've ever received came from a Circus Oz rigger. We were 10m up in the truss above the stage, discussing equipment, safety and techniques of clipping on. My questions must have either been tiring or amusing, because after some time the rigger turned to me and said that yes, safety equipment was important, but; "Just don't let go". I feel that i've carried this brave and possibly naive piece of advice well. When in dangerous situations, take all possible precautions against accident, but at the end of the day - just don't have one.

Indian Highlights

Image
Mum and Dad left early this morning, marking a neat month since i first landed in India. Sitting in a dirty dive hotel in the mayhemic (sure it's a word) Pahar Ganj district of Delhi, with a cold beer, i thought i'd compile a quick list of my favourite moments so far. So to go with it there are also some of my favourite photographs. Yes, photographs! Mitch - 1, Technology - 0, hahaha. So without further undulating delay. My father Clive has also been tiring of the constant attention that we attract in public places. One afternoon as we were walking through the metro station, a middle aged business man had craned his neck around so far in wonderment, while still walking forwards, that he walked into a wall. Dad and I started clowning when another two young guys were checking us out. Dad preens his moustache and swings an imaginary handbag, like a predatory prostitute sizing up a beat. I comically slip over on the stairs and bang my head on the handrail. Later on the packed ...

"Made Like a Gun, Goes Like a Bullet!"

Image
So after my slightly smug dissertation on India's traffic system (or rather on it's decentralised lack of coherence), i felt that it was time to get on the road and eat my words! mmm chrome So first in Pushkar, and then in Udaipur for Dad's 63rd Birthday, i hired a Royal Enfield Bullet, and took to the hills. Royal Enfield was originally a British marque that made motorcycles and lawnmowers. They were associated with the Smalls Arms factory in Enfield, hence their name and motto - "Made like a Gun, Goes Like a Bullet!". Through a confusing series of licensing agreements, Enfield' Bullets were also manufactured in India from 1956, and the marque of "Royal Enfield" was bought by the Indian manufacturing company in 1995. Thus the Enfield Bullet, at 75 years, is the longest consecutively made motorcycle of all time! To test the virtues of this bike, i first had to find a willing and cheap hirer in who had one available in the colours that i liked....